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ROLAND W-30 DATA & CURSOR CONTROL ENCODER *FIX* KIT
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ROLAND W-30 DATA & CURSOR CONTROL ENCODER *FIX* KIT
ROLAND W-30 DATA & CURSOR CONTROL ENCODER *FIX* KIT

ROLAND W-30 DATA & CURSOR CONTROL ENCODER *FIX* KIT

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HTML clipboardDO you have a ROLAND W-30 Keyboard with "Loose" or broken Encoders such as the "Cursor" control, or the "Data" control?This is you "FIX"!HTML clipboard"GOOD" are "BAD"?If you know what a "Good" encoder feels like when you turn the knob, this is an easy discernment. The Encoders are bad when you have to push to feel the "clicks", the knobs should free turn and constantly "click" and change the related value (cursor position or data), and there is not need to apply pressure to get the clicking sensations. They shouldn't be LOOSE, and if they are, you will find the nut is not simply loose. What happens is this control or "encoders" as it is called, is mounted in place by the silver collar as shown in the above pictured on the left. This is pressed into the body of the Encoder. Not a great connection, there are bound to twist out or become loose to easy... AND THEY DO! Part of this is because the downward pressure on the knobs, perhaps in packing it in a case, the result is the collar slowly loosens and then begins to rise up the shaft. Rather the shaft starts to slide into the collar to where you can get the knob back on as it was with my W-30.WHAT IS IN THIS KIT?Two encoder controllers one, for the "Data" control and one for the "Cursor". These are NOT the originals, I have found teh originmal encoders online, and they were listed for $37.00 dollars each, and shown to "not be in stock". You will need to drill out the two HTML clipboard(.348") 23/64" holes, a slightly larger hole size, (it doesn't affect the hole enough to loosen up the mounting of the original stock.)an Illustrated guide (PDF) - I added a step by step photo illustrated replacement guide to help this to be full proof for any compentant repair tech. I have authored manual for game development tools, and have taught classes and do lectures on occassion. So suchn aeffective tutorial would be right up my alley. I am also an electronics technician, since before graduating in 1986.I can say that this will successfully replace the DATA and CONTROL encoders, as I did it on my W-30's, using these same parts and cartefully follwoing the disassembly and replacment proceedure Included in this Kit.And you can too! It really is easy if you can solder! HTML clipboardYou will at least need IN TOOLS: A 15 watt soldering iron. You don't want to over heat the parts, or you will damage them! Also, You will want to use a finer small tip.Solder7/16 (11mm) Nut driver1/2" (13mm) Nut driverDrill and 'sharp' drill bit, (.348") 23/64" NOTE: If you make the hole larger You will take it out of OEM specs. So the original replacement part from Roland may NOT fit snug enough.Two Philips screw drivers. Larger size for the bottom screws and PCB, smaller for the back.Wire Cutters.Wire strippersNeedle nose pliers, (To adjust the Encoder lugs into position, to grab the loosed nuts, etc.)Cable ties (if you want to neatly retie some wire sets)A soft cushion of foam pad. OFTEN SAME DAY SHIPPING, PAY BY 8am, get it shipped that same day Monday-SaturdayDisclaimer: this is the exact procedure I have followed more than once, do so at your own risk, Human error would be the consequences of a failure to do this repair. I am not liable for your mistakes in the variables that can occur when you open electronic. Especially if you are not a trained and qualified technician as I am.I can say that this will successfully replace the DATA and CONTROL encoders, as I did it on my W-30, using these same parts and proceedure Included in this Kitand you can too!
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